Canine Good Citizen
Prep & Evaluator Track

The evaluator approaches and shakes hands with the handler while ignoring the dog. The dog must not break position, jump on the evaluator, or show aggression or extreme shyness. This tests basic social confidence and handler focus.

• Practice with strangers daily — dog parks, sidewalks, pet store aisles. Desensitization needs volume.
• Reward your dog heavily for keeping four paws on the floor while you greet someone. The behavior you pay for is the behavior you get.
• Train the "default sit" — when in doubt, your dog sits. This stops jumping before it starts.
• Have the stranger approach at an angle (not straight-on), which is less arousing for most dogs.

• Only practicing with family members — dogs know everyone at home already.
• Letting the dog greet the stranger after the test item — this teaches the dog to break early hoping for a greeting.
• Correcting after the fact. Mark and reward the split second four paws hit the floor.

The evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The dog must not jump up, pull away, or show shyness/resentment. This is different from Test 1 — here the stranger actively interacts with the dog.

• Teach "sit" as a release valve — when unsure what to do, the dog sits. Heavily reward sitting through petting.
• Gradually work up to strangers: family first, then acquaintances, then complete strangers in public.
• Practice handling from all angles (head, back, sides, ears) so nothing surprises the dog at the test.
• End interactions before the dog gets overstimulated. Keep early reps short and high-value.

• Assuming an affectionate dog is automatically ready — many social dogs jump or get too mouthy with strangers.
• Petting too long before adding real-world distraction. Build duration gradually.
• Failing to proof against excited voices and baby talk — evaluators may vary in tone.

The evaluator inspects the dog, then combs or brushes the dog and lightly examines ears and front feet. This demonstrates that the dog is cared for and accepts handling from someone other than its owner — critical for veterinary visits and public settings.

• Handle paws, ears, and mouth every single day. Make it a reward-rich ritual, not a battle.
• Have strangers (vet techs, groomers, friends) do the handling — the dog must accept it from anyone.
• Build duration: start with 2-second touches, work up to full examinations over weeks.
• Keep dog clean and well-groomed for the actual test — poor condition is an automatic disqualification.

• Skipping nail/ear/teeth handling because the dog tolerates the owner but not strangers.
• Only practicing with a brush when the dog needs to accept any grooming tool.
• Showing up for the test dirty or with matted fur — there's no excuse for this and it signals poor ownership.

The dog walks on a loose (not taut) leash through a pattern that includes a left turn, right turn, about turn, and halt. The dog doesn't need to be in perfect heel position, but the leash must have slack. No pulling, no constant tension.

• Use the "be a tree" method early — stop dead whenever tension appears. Forward motion only rewards a loose leash.
• Reward check-ins (when the dog glances at you). Eye contact predicts loose-leash walking.
• Practice in environments with progressively more distraction — you don't get test results by only practicing in your yard.
• Work turns specifically: about-turns require the dog to adjust quickly. Practice these in isolation.

• Using management tools (front-clip harness) as a crutch without building real loose-leash behavior.
• Inconsistency — allowing pulling on the way to the park while demanding loose leash elsewhere.
• Practicing only straight lines. The test requires turns; dogs get confused by direction changes they've never practiced.

Handler and dog walk close to at least three people. The dog may show casual interest in strangers but shouldn't show shyness, resentment, or overexcitement. This tests the dog's ability to navigate public environments calmly — essential for any service dog work.

• Build exposure systematically: quiet neighborhood → pet store → Saturday morning farmers market.
• Reward calm behavior (four on the floor, eyes on you) generously in high-distraction environments.
• Practice at different times of day — evening crowds feel different than morning.
• Teach a "watch me" cue for when the dog starts fixating on people. Redirect before arousal escalates.

• Only practicing in empty environments — the test environment will have energy and noise.
• Allowing the dog to greet everyone in daily life, then being surprised it lunges toward strangers during the test.
• Walking too close to distractors before the dog is ready. Build proximity gradually.

The handler asks the dog to sit, then down, then commands "stay" and walks 20 feet away, then returns. The dog must hold position until released. This is pure obedience — the foundation everything else builds on.

• Build duration before distance. A solid 30-second sit in place first, then start stepping away.
• Practice the three D's: Duration, Distance, Distraction — each is a separate skill to develop.
• Return to the dog and release — don't call them out of the stay, which teaches the dog to anticipate.
• Proof with real distractions: other dogs, dropped food, rolling balls, other people calling the dog's name.

• Rushing distance before the dog has reliable duration. 20 feet is meaningless if 5 feet breaks the stay.
• Only practicing stays in low-distraction environments — the test will have other dogs and movement nearby.
• Repeating the command when the dog doesn't comply immediately — one cue, one response.

The handler walks 10 feet away while the dog is in a sit or down. Handler calls the dog. Dog must come reliably, with no hesitation or avoidance. Arguably the most important safety skill a dog can have — and the most undertrained.

• Never call your dog for anything unpleasant (bath, crate when they don't want to go, ending play). Recall = the best thing that ever happens.
• Use a "party reward" — biggest reward in your arsenal — every single time they come when called.
• Practice recalls from different positions: sitting, lying down, playing with a toy, distracted by another dog.
• Build a "charging" phase first: say their name and immediately give a treat 20 times. Name = good things coming.

• Calling the dog and then doing something the dog dislikes — nail trim, bath, leaving the park.
• Chasing the dog when it doesn't come — this rewards the "chase me" game.
• Repeating "come come come" — one recall cue. If it doesn't work, go get the dog. Repair the skill later.

Two handlers with dogs approach each other from about 20 feet, stop, shake hands, exchange pleasantries, and continue walking. Dogs may show casual interest but should not strain toward the other dog, show aggression, or become overly excited. For dogs headed into service work, this is critical.

• Use parallel walking at distance to build positive associations — start 20+ feet apart, reward heavily, gradually decrease distance over weeks.
• "Look at that" (Leslie McDevitt's protocol) — mark and reward the moment your dog notices another dog but before they fixate.
• Reward for checking in with you when another dog is present. That eye contact is gold.
• Train with different dogs of different sizes, play styles, and energy levels — generalization matters.

• Allowing dog-dog greetings regularly, then being surprised by leash reactivity — on-leash greetings create frustration when denied.
• Practicing only with known, calm dogs. The test dog might be high-energy.
• Getting tense on the leash — handler tension travels down the leash and increases dog arousal.

The evaluator selects two distractions: one visual (dropped chair, person on crutches, jogger) and one sound (dropping a pan, rolling a cart). Dog may show interest or slight startle but should quickly recover. No aggression, panic, or barking.

• Systematic desensitization: expose your dog to weird stuff regularly. Umbrellas opening, bikes, skateboards, loud machinery, shopping carts.
• Watch body language carefully — a dog who "recovers" by freezing isn't actually recovering, they're shutting down.
• Reward recovery (four paws on floor, attention back on you) not just neutral reaction.
• Don't baby-talk or reassure when the dog reacts — that rewards the reaction. Instead, get calm yourself and redirect.

• Over-protecting the dog from new experiences. Puppies and adolescents need exposure, not bubble wrap.
• Flooding (forcing the dog into a scary situation until it gives up). This destroys trust.
• Assuming a startled recovery is a failure — slight startle then rapid recovery is a pass.

The handler gives the dog's leash to the evaluator (who holds the dog but ignores it) and moves out of sight for 3 minutes. Dog must not bark continuously, whine excessively, pace, or try to escape. This tests emotional regulation and handler independence — essential for any working dog role.

• Build confidence in being alone gradually — start with 10 seconds out of sight, build to 5 minutes over months.
• Practice having different people hold the leash while you walk away, even just to a different room.
• Don't make departures emotional — calm, matter-of-fact goodbyes reduce separation anxiety.
• Capture and reward settled behavior (lying down calmly) at every opportunity throughout the dog's life.

• Never practicing real separations with a neutral stranger — many dogs are fine with the owner but panic with strangers.
• Making arrivals/departures high-energy events. Calm hellos and goodbyes build emotional stability.
• Not building separation tolerance early enough — this skill takes months of consistent practice.